Author Archives: ACT Home Energy Specialists

Is attic ventilation necessary?

The answer is yes! To support that answer, we’ll talk about how attic ventilation works. With more knowledge about attic ventilation, you’ll understand the connection between attic ventilation and mold. 

An attic that is completed sealed traps heat and moisture, too much in fact. And that shortens the lifespan of the roofing material, from the shingles down to the rafters and decking. Keeping the attic hot isn’t just bad during the summer though. 

That heat and moisture are trapped in the winter months too, especially when there is insufficient attic insulation and lack of attic ventilation. Yes, even with ice and snow on the roof, your attic is still accumulating heat and moisture as the heat from the rest of the home rises. 

Then that hot air melts the snow as the day warms up only to melt again at night. Then you have ice dams created, which can create leaks in the roof. 

How does attic ventilation come to the rescue? 

As we learn in grade school, heat rises. So, as your home is warm and toasty in the winter thanks to a great HVAC system, that warm air rises to the attic. Warm air is moist, and if there isn’t any attic ventilation, that moisture soaks into the rafters, under decking, and up into the roofing materials. There are two types of attic ventilation to pull that naturally risen heated air out: 

• The intake attic vents: These are located under the eaves at the lowest part of the roof and cool air enters the attic through these vents.
• The hot air exhaust vents: These are located along the roof peak and the hot air escapes through these. 

For attic ventilation to work though, experts recommend attic ventilation best practices, every 300 square feet of attic floor space, there should be 1 square foot of vents. Some building codes may differ, and contractors are usually familiar with these codes or know where to confirm that information. Other steps recommended to get the most from attic ventilation include the following: 

• The intake and exhaust vents should be located so that air flows easily. This should be done with continuous vents running the entire length of the eave and ridge. 

• The airflow should not be blocked or restricted by insulation or skylights. 

• The airflow should be open from the eaves to the ridge between each rafter. 

• If static vents are used, they should be spaced equally close to each other, allowing the entire attic to be ventilated. 

• If necessary, use different types of intake vents and exhaust vents to create proper attic ventilation in coordination with the vent manufacturer’s instructions.

• The intake and exhaust for the attic ventilation should be balanced with the intake vents providing between 50% to 60% of the open ventilating area and the exhaust vents providing between 40% to 50% of the open ventilating area. The intake port of the attic ventilation should always be more than the exhaust to create a balanced attic ventilation system. 

How to tell if you need more attic ventilation?

During the summer, heat buildup should be reduced when you have good attic ventilation so that cooling expenses are reduced, and asphalt shingles’ lifespan is extended. During the winter, the warm air from the living space rises to the attic. When you have good attic ventilation, that buildup of moist heat escapes, keeps the attic dry, and eliminates the possibility of ice dams forming. 

 These are four steps that will tell you if your home does not have proper or sufficient attic ventilation: 

• Check the eaves around your home and along the roof peak. If there aren’t any attic vents in the eaves or along the roof peak, you need to have some installed. Who installs attic ventilation? If you’re getting a new roof or new siding, the contractor can install your attic ventilation. Or an HVAC specialist can install attic ventilation for you. 

• From the inside of your home, touch the ceiling on a sunny day. If the ceiling is hot, then you don’t have proper attic ventilation. 

• During the winter, if the eaves have thick ice ridges, you need more attic ventilation.

• During the winter, using a flashlight, inspect your attic. If you see dampness, moisture, or frost, your attic ventilation is insufficient. Who fixes attic ventilation? A professional roofing contractor will assess your home’s attic ventilation and provide you with the solutions to improve it, typically by installing either a roof ridge or gable vents. 

Proper attic insulation installation in an unfinished attic is a simple way to keep your heating bill under control. For an investment of between $1700 and $2100, you can get these five benefits: 

1. Money Saved: An attic insulation installation is a financial investment that will lower your future heating and cooling bills, hundreds, even thousands annually. 

2. Comfort: In Texas, the winters can get cold, and the summers definitely get blisteringly hot. But you can keep your home comfortable year-round with attic insulation installation. An under-insulated home is vulnerable to fluctuating temperatures, especially in the attic. With an attic insulation installation, you keep the cool or heat in the living area of the house. 

3. Environmental Impact: For the homeowner concerned with being green, and attic insulation installation will help your home use less energy, limit pollution contribution, and reduce waste, all minimizing your home’s carbon footprint.

4. Soundproofing: Wall and attic insulation installation will soundproof your home, a big bonus if you live on a busy street or have loud neighbors. ad, or annoying city sounds. 

5. Overall Help for Your Home: Attic insulation installation will help your home’s foundation and roof by keeping pipes from freezing (a BIG problem this past February!) and keep you from having those massive repair bills again.

How much insulation do I need in my attic?

Before you call and schedule a professional attic insulation installation, or buy the materials to DIY, check to see what you have first. How much and the condition of what you have will determine how much you need, if any. Don’t just assume you need any insulation.

The recommended amount of attic insulation is based on two major factors: 

• Where you live—Insulation is measured in R-value, and it takes on a different value for different climates.
• Age of your home—A home that is 10 years old or older will need more attic insulation than a new home. Your attic insulation installation can be retrofitted with a fiberglass and mineral wool type of insulation.

Is it worth replacing attic insulation?

Typically, with attic insulation installation, manufacturers advise it should last at least 80 years, and sometimes even as long as 100 years. However, it’s efficacy becomes less and less as its ages, so the recommendation is replacing it every 15 years to ensure that it is doing the best job possible. You should check every two to three years and if there are any signs of moisture or pests in the insulation, you should consider an attic insulation installation sooner than the recommended 15 years.

Can you put too much insulation in the attic?

Yes – too much insulation in the attic can have a negative impact, and here a couple of reasons why this is one time more is not better: 

• Poor ROI: ROI, (Return on investment) is a concept in determining the value of an investment. When we’re considering an attic insulation installation, the ROI is determined by dividing the benefit it provides, i.e. energy savings, by the cost of your initial investment. Once you know the recommended R-value for your home, if you want more energy efficiency than what that provide, install a radiant barrier instead. A radiant barrier will block heat from the roof before it reaches your insulation. This allows less heat transfer into the air conditioned space of your home. 

• Poor Ventilation: An attic has to be ventilated, but if you overstuff the attic with insulation, the ventilation can’t work. 

Can I install my own attic insulation?

Yes, it is possible with certain types of attic insulation materials, and it will save you money. A fiberglass batting type of insulation is a fairly easy DIY project for one weekend. However, if you want to go with blown in or spray foam insulation, this has to be done by a certified and licensed attic insulation installation professional.

What attic insulation do I need?

There are a variety of attic insulation types, but the one most recommended today is spray foam insulation. There are two types of spray foam insulation to choose from: 

• Closed-cell with a R-6.5 value 
• Open-cell with a R-3.6 value 

Knowing how attic insulation works will help you understand how and why attic insulation is important – and it will help you understand why attic insulation replacement is important, too.  Attic insulation is a thermal barrier that reduces the movement of thermal energy into and out of your home. Simply put, attic insulation blocks heat from coming inside in the summer and keeps heat inside in the winter.

You need attic insulation to keep your house cool in the winter and to keep it at an ideal warm temperature in the winter, all with minimal to no effect on your utilities.  If you haven’t already been there, go to the attic, and you should see that even the flooring is covered with insulation. 

That is what is keeping the cool air in the summer and the warm air in the winter inside your home. If there isn’t any – or if there is very little – then it is time to have a professional quote you on attic insulation replacement. 

Which attic insulation is best?

What makes an attic insulation replacement the best? That is going to depend on what you are expecting and needing with your insulation. Here, we have listed some common types of attic insulation with their pros, cons, and their R-value. This information can help you make a decision on which is the best for your home: 

Fiberglass Batt

This is the easiest attic insulation replacement on the market, but it also has the worse R-value and performance.  Still, because it is the easiest to install, typically being a weekend DIY  project, it is still popular and better than nothing. 

Cellulose

Made from ground-up paper and boric acid (offering insect control), this fire-resistant attic insulation replacement is better than the batts described above.  This can be a DIY home improvement project as well with bags of the material available at any big box home improvement store. With a large enough quantity, some stores will loan you the insulation blower at no charge. 

The downside to cellulose insulation is the amount of dust it creates, which can be a hindrance. However, a professional can install wet-spray cellulose as dust control, but not so much as to reduce its effectiveness. With an approximate R-value of  3.5 per inch, there isn’t an actual air barrier. However, air movement is stopped by its density.  

Loose-Fill Fiberglass

This attic insulation replacement material dominates the new-build industry with an approximate R-Value of 2.5 per inch. It is typically blown in by a machine and requires a respirator while installing it. Because the fiberglass causes itchy skin and makes breathing difficult, it is recommended to have it professionally installed. 

A downside in the history of loose-fill attic insulation replacement is the loss of effectiveness once temperatures drop to 20 degrees and colder. The new manufacturing process improved on this issue. 

Spray Foam

Most professionals believe this is the best performing attic insulation replacement on the market. It comes in two types, closed-cell with an R-value of 6.5 and open-cell with an R-value of 3.6 per inch. Professional installation will assure that all crannies and nooks are thoroughly covered, keeping air movement out with zero heat transfer.

The downside to either of these spray-foam attic insulation replacement materials is the expense. Professional installation is recommended to ensure you’re getting the best coverage possible. A big downside is the toxic off-gassing, another reason professional installation is recommended. 

Can attic insulation cause allergies?

Attic insulation replacement materials often have an odor that can make some people sick with prolonged exposure. Professional installation of any type of attic insulation can typically prevent this from happening.  If you choose a DIY project with your attic insulation that results in members of your home getting sick, call a professional immediately to help rectify the problem and avoid possibly serious health issues.

Can attic insulation catch fire?

While most attic insulation replacement materials are extremely fireproof, there is a wide range of issues that can cause them to burn. Fiberglass insulation is naturally fire-resistant because of the glass and plastic polymers it is made from.  Batt style of attic insulation has a foil or paper backing that burns fast and cellulose attic insulation is not fireproof unless treated with flame retardants that minimize combustion. An attic insulation material made from mineral wool is non-combustible.

How much does it cost to remove and replace attic insulation?

Removing old attic insulation can cost as much as $1.50 per square foot. Attic insulation replacement can be as low as $2 per square foot and up to $8.50 per square foot depending on the material. If the existing insulation is in good condition, it may cost less than $1.50 per square foot to remove. 

How do I get rid of old attic insulation?

If you want to save money, removing the old attic insulation yourself may be a possibility. If you’re not sure the old insulation should be removed before the new attic insulation replacement, know that removing it will also remove any possible rodent infestation and mold. It also improves the air quality and energy efficiency once the attic insulation replacement is installed. 

To remove the existing attic insulation yourself, work in small areas and work your way through the entire attic. This takes longer but makes the removal easier. Invest in protective gear for your own safety, including eye-wear, face mask, rubber-coated gloves, long sleeves, and a pair of coveralls. A flashlight will be helpful as you go about removing the old attic insulation. 

To get the job done quicker, rent a commercial-grade insulation removal vacuum. The gas-powered engine will have metal connectors to the vacuum and large vacuum bags that will help get it done safely and fast. You want to have plenty of 50-gallon construction-type trash bags, dustpans, and rakes on hand to remove blown-in insulation. 

Most attics are not built for a lot of foot traffic, so you’ll want to walk with caution and keep moving. If you have a hardhat it will give you added protection. With all of this in place and on hand, get started following these tips:

• BLOWN-IN CELLULOSE: With a flashlight, ladder, and a commercial vacuum, and wearing all the safety equipment listed, begin vacuuming up the blown-in insulation, raking insulation into your dustpan and into the waste bags. Then with your shop-vac, get any remaining insulation the commercial vac didn’t get. Rinse, repeat until all old insulation is gone. Take a break every 15 or 20 minutes. Toss the filled waste bags in a dumpster. 

• FIBERGLASS BATT INSULATION: Following the same process with the commercial vacuuming after you have rolled up all the old insulation, place the rolls into waste bags, simply vac up the floors. 

Reduced Irritants and Toxins

You would be surprised to know how many irritants and toxins come from your attic that are affecting your family’s health. The indoor air quality of your home is a contributing factor to breathing problems like asthma and other respiratory issues.

The obvious contaminants are cigarette smoke and the secondhand smoke that creates.  The carbon monoxide, and radon gas, dust mite and rodent allergens. Over 80% of all homes in this country have a detectable level of mouse allergens, there is no boundary to the poverty level either. Over 80% of all homes have a detectable level of dust mite allergens in the bedrooms, and over 60% have a detectable level of cockroach allergens. With a professional attic disinfecting and cleaning service, you won’t have anything left to harbor in your attic that can be causing any of the following: 

• Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome
• Hemorrhagic Fever with Renal Syndrome
• Lassa Fever
• Leptospirosis
• Lymphocytic Chorio-meningitis
• Omsk Hemorrhagic Fever
• Plague
• Rat-Bite Fever
• Salmonellosis
• South American Arenaviruses
• Tularemia

A professional team will know how to disinfect your attic so that all these allergens, bacteria, and germs that are making your family unhealthy are removed. Disinfecting attic after rats and insects have been nesting and breeding will make a noticeable difference in your family’s breathing abilities. 

Energy Efficiency Increased

The layer of attic insulation that is crucial barrier to the heat transference. With attic disinfecting and cleaning by a professional  attic cleaning company, not only do they know how to clean a dirty attic, but they are also trained in spotting damaged or insufficient insulation and air duct issues. 

Maintenance Expenses Reduced

A professional attic cleaning has trained their team to identify small issues that can become big and expensive problems if not addressed. Like a small roof leak or the HVAC air duct damaged or disconnected, even possible electrical issues that can be a fire hazard. These professional attic disinfecting teams so more than clean and disinfect, they will save you money and time in the long run. 

Wouldn’t it be nice to know after you’ve had the lawn serviced and the house cleaned by a professional team, that your attic is also clean, disinfected, and ready to be used?  Maybe you have an elderly parent moving in soon and need more space? 

With a professional attic disinfecting and cleaning, you can create another bedroom for your older children and let the elderly parent take their bedroom. If you’re planning on placing your house on the market, a professional attic disinfecting service could help in bringing you better offers too. 

What if you never use your attic for anything more than storing holiday decorations? Remember, the contaminants from insects and rodents nesting are spreading throughout your home from attic. A professional attic disinfecting service will remove them, and the bacteria and germs left behind, giving your home cleaner air to breathe. Call 817-781-8781 today for attic sanitization in Fort Worth, TX.

The wide range of attic decontamination activities are a professional attic cleaning effort that will result with a big impact on the health of your home.  This is especially helpful if you have moved into a home with an attic of unknown condition. 

There may be a shredded and decomposing attic insulation, or small critter and  rodent infestation that is creating a fire hazard of chewed wiring and nest building. It is their specialty of attic pest cleanup that is biggest bonus. The bacteria, germs, and odor that rodents leave behind as the move on, or worse, die in the attic, are spreading throughout your home. The family and any guests are breathing that gross nasty stuff that a professional attic decontamination cleans up. 

If you don’t know how to remove pest from attic, professional attic decontamination services do. Some of the steps they take that know how to rid attic of rodents include: 

• Remove contaminated, destroyed, and old attic insulation
• Thoroughly examine insulation for rodent nests.
• Remove any nests and clean all nesting sites with a shop vac equipped with a HEPA filter.
• Use a three-phase fog treatment that decontaminates the attic. The three-phase attic fogging treatment is designed to specifically:

• Eliminate all effects of rodent feces and urine
• Eliminate all foul odors
• Breakdown and rid any animal attracting pheromones that attract critters and rodents
• Exterminate fleas, mites, and other insects

After the attic decontamination and three-phase fogging treatment is completed, new fiberglass insulation will be blown in to replace what was removed. 

Is attic insulation cleanup necessary with attic decontamination service? 

If your attic currently has or has had in the past an infestation of critters or rodents, for an attic decontaminated to be done properly,  removal of contaminated, decaying, and old attic insulation is an absolute must.  

The critters and rodents may be gone, but they have left behind their feces and urine, which are breaking down.  That in turn is spreading harmful bacterial and fungal spores in the air throughout your home. There is a good chance that your family is being made sick from these leftovers. After an animal infestation, a professional attic decontamination is the best way to get your attic 100% clean and sanitized, and that includes attic insulation cleanup, meaning removing the attic insulation. 

These diseases can still exist from a rodent infestation even after it has been eradicated. Professional attic  decontamination is a thorough way of dealing with an infestation. Even without a rodent issue, the dust that every attic has can cause health issues, just like dirty air vents. 

When you are ready to hire a professional attic decontamination service, you want to approach this as you would any other type of professional home service like roofing, plumbing, siding, window installation, etc.   

The company should send a technician out to inspect your attic before giving you a firm attic cleanup cost.  They may offer price ranges per square foot for their attic decontamination services, but each attic can have different issues and different amount and types of critter, insect, and/or rodent infestation. Some may have old infestation and some homes have a current issues. Both have some of the same treatment, but a current infestation may need additional services. 

Their written estimate for attic decontamination should list specifically how they will perform their attic cleanup and insulation removal and replacement. Including the R-value of insulation replacement. The written estimate should also include their process for attic cleanup and rodent proofing to prevent any future rodent infestation. Call 817-781-8781 today for your decontamination cleaning in Fort Worth, TX.

One of the largest energy wastes is the air loss in homes, which creates higher energy bills too. Home air duct sealing  the leaks found in an energy audit will prevent any more loss while improving the energy efficiency and the HVAC system’s lifespan. 

There is a good chance there are air leaks in the walls, around the doors and windows that you may not be aware of, and they are not only letting out cooled or warmed air, but they are also creating moisture problems. 

Those moisture problems aren’t letting the HVAC system keep a comfortable temperature in the house, so the thermostat gets adjusted.  That moisture build up is also creating health issues for your family and will eventually start causing structural damage to your home. 

So, how much does a home air duct sealing  job cost? As with anything you have done to your home, there are several “depends” with Home air duct sealing too. Like how many, the location, and the severity of those air leaks on where they are located and how severe they are. 

You get a minimum basic for air sealing existing home of 2,500 square foot for as little a $300 up to about $600.  If you want a full home air duct sealing project, a  2,500 square foot home will run between $2100 and $5200.  

What is the difference in the two different home air duct sealing projects? The more expensive one will include caulking, metal flashing, and weatherstripping where needed. It also includes spray foam insulation. The basic will give you sealing around the primary doors and windows. 

No check the baseboards, doors, and windows, for cracks or gaps that air can be getting in (or out). Any wall or window mounted air conditioning units the home air conditioning sealant should be checked too.  If your windows are over 20 years old, consider getting new windows. While that is a costly investment upfront, you’re losing as much as 40% of the air right now, that is money going out the door. 

• The Basement & Crawlspace: Inspect the rim joists and sill plates and seal any cracks and gaps between them and your home’s foundation. Any holes in the foundation or rim joist where electrical work, HVAC, or hose bibs have been installed should be filled with caulk or spray foam.  Same goes for the dryer vent, gas water heater vent and other protruding vents. Check main floor and basement ceiling ductwork, electrical, and plumbing holes and caulk or spray foam them as part of your home air duct sealing project. 

• The Attic: Here is where a lot of cooled and warmed air escape!  If you’re going to focus on one area, start in the attic. Have your attic inspected by a profession to evaluate the current insulation. If you don’t want to spend that money, then go forth by sealing up any holes in the attic floor and roof. There could be around light fixtures, stacks, and vents, around the chimney and recessed lighting. 

This may all seem like a lot of work, so you’re questioning Is air sealing worth it? A home air duct sealing job will provide you the following benefits:

• Consistent temperatures – no more thermostat changes
• Prevention of ice dams 
• Improved indoor air quality
• Up to 18% reduction in cooling and heating costs

Need help with your air duct sealing in Fort Worth, TX? Call 817-781-8781 today!

Well, the answer it depends.  How old is the insulation and is the existing insulation damaged or currently wet? Remember, the purpose of insulation in the attic is provide energy-efficiency and to make your home more comfortable. It is damaged or wet, then yes, you need to remove it before you install new insulation. 

ENERGY STAR® suggestion that if you find damaged or wet insulation, find out why it is damaged or wet and resolve that before installing new insulation. If you just put new in without finding the source of the problem, then you’re just setting up the new insulation to be damaged or get wet too. Wet insulation will become problematic as it mildews and grows mold. This leads to rotting the rafters in your attic and then the ceiling.

Is removing insulation dangerous?

 Insulation removal from walls or ceilings may seem easy, but because insulation degrades as it ages, it is more involved than it seems. Some of the insulation is fastened to the drywall, rafters, and studs, making it  challenge to remove the stuff completely and safely.  Reasons you want to search for “a company that offers Insulation removal near me”, are many, including the possible damage you could cause to your home if you’re not careful.  Other reasons that hiring a company are:

• The Mess: Before attempting to insulation removal is messy, and the older the home and insulation, the messier it gets. Fiberglass based insulation become corroded and decays, turning into a dusty substance that even a professional has challenges to remove the material sufficiently. 
• The Mold: If your home has every had a plumbing or roof leak where the attic may have been affected, the insulation is probably molded. This may not seem like a big issue until you start removing it and the toxicity of the mold begins to float into the air. 
• Expertise: A insulation removal company will have the experience with insulation removal, and with their level of experience and knowledge, they can advise you of possible structural issues that should be addressed before installing new insulation. 
• Efficient and Fast: Insulation removal isn’t going to go as quick as you may think. An experienced company will have the property equipment and tools to remove it correctly, safely, and thoroughly, and faster. 

How do I remove loose insulation?

Hiring a professional company for insulation removal from the attic or your walls is recommended. However, nobody is unaware of budgeting and if you need or want to go the DIY route, the following steps are required to do a complete, safe, and thorough job.

Cellulose Insulation Removal Steps: 

Take safety precautions and wear a mask and gloves, using only a high powered 1500 HP-plus shop vac with adequate suction power for insulation removal. 

• Cover all the furniture throughout your home with plastic to keep the cellulose insulation dust off. 
• Purchase large plastic trash bags, construction quality is recommended and available at home improvement stores.  Each bag will need to have all the squeezed from them once full. 

This process will take up to 10 hours, longer if you have more than one attic. 

Fiberglass Batt Insulation Removal Steps: 

Again, wear a mask, gloves, and also googles and long sleeves. 

• Start at the attic corner farthest from the access point and begin folding/rolling the batts. 
• As you get to the attic access, stuff the rolled insulation in a large plastic garbage bag. 

Depending on the roof pitch and the number of attic you have, this insulation removal can take up to 8 hours. 

Can you burn old insulation?

You can try, but it will just melt because insulation is made from shredded glass that is simply spun  after being melted. Think of it as cotton candy. So,  fiberglass is non-combustible, but with a really hot fire, it will melt. What will burn is the foil facing and kraft paper which are combustible, household fires are often caused or fueled by the foil and paper parts. 

HVAC duct cleaning service has become a popular service over the past few years. You see vans going through neighborhoods with their logo on the side, and they seem to be busy, but you still wonder, it that really a necessary service? While there hasn’t been any research to show your home’s air quality will improve with your HVAC ducts professionally cleaned, nothing has proved it doesn’t help either. 

However, there has been evidence that when dirty cooling and heating, your HVAC system isn’t working as efficient as it should. That includes the coils, motors, and the air handling unit. After you have had your HVAC ducts cleaned by a professional service, ask to see what they removed. Once you realize that was in your home’s HVAC ducts and the air you were breathing in from the vents was blowing across that, you may feel differently. 

HVAC ducts that are professionally services with specialized equipment and tools for hvac duct and vent cleaning, and property hvac duct connectors  that gets more than the dirt and dust. The blowers, brushes, and vacuums, they use to clean the intake, and return ducts are getting all that pet dander too, which you’ve been breathing in all this time. 

Can I clean my air ducts myself?

You can attempt the job of cleaning your own HVAC ducts, but it isn’t recommended. Why? Because the process of getting to the nitty gritty, requires hvac duct cleaning tools. Among those tools are high-powered vacuums and rotary brushes, not equipment or tools that the average homeowner doesn’t have in their garage. In an attempt to clean your own HVAC ducts, you could damage the ducts and have to call a professional to repair them, much more expensive than having a professional HVAC duct cleaning. 

What happens if you don’t clean your air ducts?

As we mentioned earlier in this piece, have your HVAC ducts professional cleaned one time and ask to see what they removed. Then when you see what collects inside your air ducts, you may realize why everyone in the house has allergies and breathing issues. What contaminants exactly collect in the HVAC ducts? 

• Dust – from your carpet and furniture.
• Dirt – as it is tracking in from outside, it gets up in the HVAC ducts.
• Pet dander – if you have a pet, there is dander, and it is getting sucked up into the HVAC ducts.
• Insects and pest – Yes, there is an assorted amount of insects and pests that make their home in HVAC ducts. This includes mice, roaches, and others. Each time your HVAC system blows air, it is blowing over the bacteria and germs these have left behind. 

Dirty HVAC ducts can make your family sick too. If anyone in your home suffers with chronic health issues or respiratory illnesses, dirty HVAC ducts are only going to make it harder on them. Even the healthiest person in your home will start having coughs, headaches, and sneezing. 

With dirty HVAC ducts, the HVAC system has to work harder and longer, which will show up on your energy bills. You’ll also notice it isn’t cooling or heating as well as it should, and that can all be related to dirty HVAC ducts. 

So, cleaning HVAC ducts is recommended, but at the end of the day, it is a personal decision.  There are issues to be considered and if you’re noticing a cut in the air flow or an odor coming from the HVAC ducts, it would be worthwhile having them professionally cleaned.  Call 817-781-8781 today for your duct cleaning needs in Fort Worth, TX.

• Establish the age and construction method of the residence.
• Measure the floor and wall areas of the residence.
• Inspect the heating system.
• Identify existing insulation in attic and  cavity walls.
• Identify any alternative heat source  and energy-efficient items.

The certified energy auditor will collect detailed data on the residence  as outlined by the Department of Energy and issue a certificate. The detailed data the certified energy auditor collects will include items on a government issued energy audit checklist.

What is an energy audit checklist?

A general home energy test is based on an energy audit checklist that will assess the energy efficiency of your residence by a Certified energy auditor. The certified energy auditor will inspect the appliances and equipment within the home and how they are used. It will include a review of your home’s design and based on the data they gather using the home energy test checklist, they can identify prospects where you can reduce your energy cost, usage, and provide solutions to improve these areas.

The Heat Efficiency

The entire heating system is evaluated for the following:

• The age, brand, condition, and model number.
• The type of energy used for the heating system.

The heating system evaluation includes the blower motor, fan, thermostat, timer, and all components that create and distribute the heat. This evaluation enables the certified energy auditor to collect the energy efficiency data of the heating system.

The Insulation Efficiency

The certified energy auditor will evaluate the type of insulation that is installed within the residence. The certified energy auditor will measure the existing insulation and do a comparison to the current standards:

• Attic insulation – what is the dept vs what is recommended.
• Wall insulation – The existing wall insulation is examined and compared to the recommendation.
• Double glazing – The glazing on doors and windows s checked and compared to what is recommended.

What are the three things an energy audit will tell you?

There are two types of  home energy efficiency test or home energy audits:

• The Home Energy Survey: A visual inspection that will not use any type of diagnostic testing equipment.
• The General Energy Audit: Also referred to as a detailed energy audit or standard energy audit. Thishome energy test will collect detailed information, expanding on the home energy survey involving the energy usage of the home and provide a financial analysis of the energy expenses.

Can you do your own energy audit?

A professional home energy test will be more thorough and informative, but a “do-it-yourself” home energy test can be helpful. With the DIY home energy test, you can pinpoint some areas that need to be addressed. As you walk through your home looking for issues, create a checklist so you’ll know what you what problems you identified. This checklist will allow you to list what needs immediate attention first.  

How do I do an energy audit on my house?

The following is a step-by-step of what to check for a DIY home energy test:

• Air Drafts: The first step in a home energy step is to list the air leaks and drafts that are obvious. By reducing those air drafts, you can save up to 20% a year in energy costs. Those air leaks can be found along the baseboards and where the floor and wall meet. Areas, where two different part of the house meet on the exterior, are subject to be an area of air leaks.  Check around the doors, lighting, light switches, windows, and electrical outlands, and plumbing fixtures.
• Ventilation: When insulating or sealing your home for energy efficiency, be cautious with back drafting combustible appliances and exhaust fans that require air.
• Insulation: The heat that is lost through the ceiling and walls of your home may be larger than you think. When a house is built, the builder will typically put the recommended insulation. With the price of energy today though, that insulation is probably inadequate.
• Cooling and Heating Equipment: Inspect the cooling and heating equipment every year and replacing the filter every 30 days is always recommended. Make sure the system is free of dirt, dust, and nothing blocking the vents.
• Lighting: The lights in your home are responsible for as much as 10% of the energy costs. Replace the current bulbs as they burn out compact fluorescent lamps, incandescent, or light-emitting diodes. Some utility companies offer incentives like rebates for using energy-efficient lamps. 
• The Appliances and Electronics: Your energy cost is affected by how you use your appliances and electronics.  Estimate the energy use of these and then look for ways to reduce your energy use with them, like unplugging what you’re not using, change the setting for items like computers to go to sleep, and when buying new, buy products that are more energy-efficient.

A DIY home energy test is the next best thing when you can’t afford or arrange a professional home energy test. Follow the steps we have provided here or surf the internet for a more comprehensive DIY home energy test. Call 817-781-8781 today to get started on a home energy audit or blower door test in Fort Worth, TX

1. Central air conditioning and heating: 46 percent of our electricity is the comfort zone. The average HVAC unit uses 3500 watts by running up to three times an hour for fifteen minutes. In a twenty-four hours, an HVAC system can use up to 63 kWh or 1,950 kWh a month. 
2. Water heaters: 14 percent of our electricity is heating water for bathing, dishes, and laundry. With a properly running water heater, the average is three hours a day, using 4500 watts or 13.5 kWh per day. That is 405 kWh each month. .
3. Appliances: 13 percent of our electricity is in the kitchen! The refrigerator has to run all day, using 225 watts which is 162 kWh a month. Your washer and dryer together are guilty of using five percent or 3045 watt while your oven uses 2,500 watts and the stove top uses 1,500 watt. 
4. Lights: 9 percent of your electrical bill is caused by lights. Leave a 100-watt incandescent bulb on for two hours a day it is going to use  6 kWh per month. That doesn’t sound like much until you add up how many lights are in your house. 
5.  Media and televisions: 4 percent of an average home’s use is the electronics we can’t live without. With 5 hours of television viewing a day and 6 hours a week on the video games, you’re using as much as 55 kWh monthly. 

How can I use less energy?

Now that you know what is using the most electricity in your home, energy saving bills should be your next focus. Try these home energy efficiency steps and you could save as much as $500 a year. The savings will depend on the size of your home, and the age and condition using this home energy efficiency checklist:

1. Turn off the lights: Save $15 a year by turning off two 100-watt incandescent bulbs two hours a day or switch to LED.
2. Natural light: This is free! When you use natural light instead of one 60-watt light bulb for four hours, you can save $9 annually. 
3. Task lighting: Instead of overhead lighting and tabletop lighting, install tracking lighting and under-counter task lighting. 
4. Shorten the showers: With only 2 people in the house taking a shower for one less minute a day, you can save $30 or more each year.
5. Turn the water off: While you brush your teeth, shave, or wash your hands, turn the water off until you’re ready to rinse and save almost $20 a year.
6. Leaky faucets: This is the biggest water waste in the country. Fix a leaking hot water faucet and you’ll save almost $10 in one year.  
7. Unplug the unused: When electronics are in standby power mode, they are consuming up to 10% of your electricity usage. If you’re not using it – unplug it. 
8. Dump desktop computers: Time to replace any desktop computer with a laptop and save $4 a year with each 2 hours of use.
9. Update the TV: Time to upgrade to the LCD televisions and for every 2 hours you want the new 42” display, you’ll save $6 a year.
10. Thermostat management: Raise the thermostat on your electric furnace 2 degrees and save as much as $120 a year. 

Other things that can make a difference in your home energy efficiency efforts is the type of window coverings you choose, cook outside during the summer to keep the kitchen cooler and use the microwave in the winter, use the washer and dryer only when you have a full load, wash in cold water and hang things to dry as much as possible. 

What are examples of energy efficiency? and How do you maximize energy efficiency?

Home energy efficiency is finding ways to consume less energy in everyday things. From reducing the electricity and water we use to finding ways of making our homes more energy efficient with insulation and better windows. Find a better way to do the things you do every day, and then improve upon that is the best home energy efficiency advice. 

Home energy efficiency is using the sun for heat by way of solar panels and lighting instead of lamps. Changing lamps from traditional incandescent bulbs to LED bulbs. Keeping home maintenance up is a huge part of home energy efficiency too, like running toilets and dripping faucets. Home energy and efficiency should be hand-in-hand in our homes today.